gone cloggy

Lynae, Helge and van Stenwinkel

2011-08-03T22:59:00.000-07:00

Denmark is gorgeous in the summer! Boating. Castles. Meanderings.

When the weather turns warm and the sun dares to come out, it's absolutely lovely. In my last weeks spent in Denmark I really soaked it up. This was the end of June and while there were jackets aboard to fend off the cool sea wind, it was a great day to be out on the water.

Just about to set sea on the Helge (is she called "the Helge" or simply "Helge"? anybody...???).

This is the view of Svendborg marina (above). And Helge herself (below).

Smuk båd!

Off we go! My mother's along for this Danish expedition, and we're headed to Valdemar Slot.

Danish castle of glories past, here we come!

Off we go... for our three hour tour!

Cool sign, huh?

Time for a Danish lesson! "Slot" means "castle". Yep, pronounced just like "slot" as in "slot machines". Not to be confused with "slut" which in Danish means "the end".

This castle was built by King Christian IV between 1639-1644 by his architect Hans van Stenwinkel. I think the most interesting thing about the castle (apart from the sweet sign, or course) is the architect's name. Did you just say "van Stenwinkel". Amazing.

Yeah, the castle itself... not so amazing.

Okay, well those are some great flags. But really? You call that a castle? I'm thinking it looks like a 17th century pole barn. Yeps, boring. I didn't even bother to take pictures inside.

Sorry Denmark, I'll enjoy your dreamy summer weather, and leave Valdemar Slut to someone else...

This crew had a few things to say about that castle....

...a picture is worth a thousand words, did you say?

Ciao, Mr. van Stenwinkel and your big old boring pole barn...

Maybe it's something about living in the same little island-riddled country for a year that I got a bit bored of their castles? I don't know... but I do know that I never got bored of the Limfjords Porter or Ale #16.

Yum, lækker øl!

Ærø

2011-06-04T12:49:00.000-07:00

Denmark is a land of islands. There are three main ones, but it has has over 4,000 islands in total so there's plenty to be explored. Last weekend I went with my host family to a wonderful place called Ærø. This island can only be reached by ferry and the kids were more than a little excited for the trip across to the other side!

It was a bit cold, but the kids had a blast taking in the view.

Once on land we explored the charming little town, Ærøskøbing. It's hard to do it justice with photos - it's a place with classic old-Danish architecture, cobble streets and a lazy, small town air that is infectious.

A little girl and her giraffe could not be bothered to stay with the rest of us.

Our next stop: "Ærø Accordian Festival"

People were piling in to come hear the music in their cars, by motor cycle, bike or on foot.

This accordion orchestra included about 10 members... none of them under the age of 75 I think. They played some old Danish tunes and a few familiar American ones too.

The accordion scene is strong in Denmark, and is a sub-culture of its own. Young and old turn out to play, listen and hang out for this 3-day festival on the island. As is typical at most any Danish social event, you will see people eating hotdogs and pancakes, and drinking beer.

Choose your dog.... would you like remoulade or hot ketchup with that?

We took a break from the music for playtime! This is the coolest... I have no clue what it's called. You crawl up about 30 feet, and then slide down. Perhaps it could be called a "Spiderman Junglegym"??

We drove around exploring the rest of the island which is beautiful in a very simple way.

The most rugged coastline I've seen in Denmark. Lovely.

The local Hotel.

Skjoldnæs fyr

Last stop: Skjoldnæs lighthouse. It was built in 1881 by Swedish stone-masons... some of whose descendants still live on the island. Climbing the tower is a great way to get a view of the countryside and the sea.

The Danes and their ships! It's just amazing some of these old viking-style ones are still in everyday use.

Time to go home. This was a fabulous trip, and an essential go-to place if you're ever in Denmark!

Athens, baby!

2011-05-04T12:56:00.000-07:00

Athens at sunset.

Athens is a city full of wonder, beauty and history...

...and stray dogs, graffiti and pollution.

I loved it.

Good job fellas. The changing of the guard.

The Roman Forum (yes, in Greece).

Zeus' Temple.

Local music at a restaurant downtown.

Some little guys playing music for change. Breaktime.

Yeps!

Nice knockers...

The local law enforcement.

The view of the Parthenon from my hotel window.

Did I mention the stray dogs? They were everywhere..

...and the graffiti.

A local shop's cashier counter. complete with ash tray and Saint.

The guard marching to the top of the Parthenon at dusk.

The Parthenon.

The view from the Parthenon.

Volcanoes, sundried tomatoes and donkeys...

2011-05-04T10:58:00.000-07:00

Santorini is a beautiful Greek island in the Agean Sea, a short plane ride from Athens. It's small, quiet and beautiful.

Ready for a tour?

The island was formed by a volcano - the biggest eruption in the past 10,000 years was here. This is the view from the crater.

The homes in Santorini are built into the hillside. Essentially, these people are cavemen. ;)

The water is amazingly blue and clear.

Beautiful sundried tomatoes. Okay, well, they're still drying...

What's commonly known as a "Greek Salad". Fresh, delicious and perfect.

As is customary in many Greek restaurants: You can preview the grill and decide what you'd like.
"Calamari, please!"

Local transportation.

Danish word of the day: "Ta Da!"

2011-03-18T13:07:00.000-07:00

What is that word you say when you're just going to finish up here and... ah, "ta da!"

Okay, well Americans don't quite have a word that would translate - but if there was an actual word for "ta da" it would be the same as when Danes say "sådan der". Now you're wondering how in the world you spit that out (letters with bubbles on them aren't exactly part of American vernacular...). In true Danish fashion you swallow half the letters, and it comes out "suhn-dia", or just "suh" if you're from the south of Fyn where you spit out only half the word.

Scenes from life in Denmark: "ta da!" moments....

Just got your new beer holder set up on your bike... "sådan der".

Just finished spreading leverpostej perfectly over your rye bread for lunch... "sådan der".

Naptime for the kid? Just put them in the stroller and leave them outside to sleep - never mind if there's a foot of snow on the ground, just wrap them in a couple extra blankets..."sådan der".

5 Things you won't find in Denmark

2011-02-28T08:24:00.000-08:00

There are somethings I can't help but notice that are missing from life here....

Chocolate Chips

Those delicous melty morsels that every mother throws into thier kids' favorite cookie. Alas, you won't find it here. There's plenty of marzipan though.

Gas-Guzzlers

The streets here are filled with bikes and pedestrians, and public transport is efficient and readily-available.
And if you do have a car, you're more likely to buzz around in a little pop can rather than fork out the money for something bigger [what some Americans might refer to as a "real car"]. But when cars cost about twice as much, and gas is the price of gold that bicycle starts looking really sexy.

Ziplock Bags

This one just breaks my heart. I'm a bit of a kitchen efficiency effianato, and living without ziplocks in the kitchen is a bit like asking me to play the guitar without the use of my thumbs.

"Let's go to the 'Bucks!"

Starbucks.

It's true... I live without Starbucks. I've seen one in the airport, but that's about 3 hours away from where I live. Gasp! Actually I'm not much of a fan usually, but when you're aching for something familiar, the evils of corporate America is a lot less important than my hazelnut cappicino and old friends!

Refried Beans.

Ay chiwawa! Yes, I have finally found pinto beans here and have mastered a home-made version, but you can forget about buying them anywhere. And forget about finding a Taco Time, Muchas Gracias or any Mexican restaurants for that matter. Danes are putting away a lot more roasted potatoes, pickled fish and remoulade than anything from south of the border (and so am I!).

My Neighborhood

2011-02-21T10:45:00.000-08:00

I will never get over how quaint and lovely the Danish countryside is. Here's a little tour - photos taken last summer.

Sheep!
Okay, I live in a teeeeny, tiny village. The running joke is "look, there's a person!" because it's a rare treat to actually cross paths with someone around here. But sheep? We've got those ;)

One of the houses "in town". They're so darling! It's not unusual for them to fly the Danish flag like this - it's more like a pennant really.

The local grocery store.

My host family's horses: Evento and Sandra.

It's funny that this is now "normal" to me... cool though, isn't it?

The local church (in the background) and the restaurant (foreground).

10 Things I was not expecting to find in Europe...

2011-02-15T06:39:00.000-08:00

1. Houses that look like something from a fairytale.

Svendborg, Denmark

2. Night Ravens.

Americans have "neighborhood watch" which is when people look out for each others' homes and let each other know if they see unwelcome people lurking in the neighborhood. Danes have Night Ravens: parents who volunteer to be out on the town on weekends to keep an eye on drunk kids and make sure they're safe. And to give out candy and condoms. Yes, I said condoms.

3. Baby boozers.

She's almost 2 years old... awh, how sweet...

My host mother and the baby.

4. Rednecks.

Granted, I live out in the country about an hour from anything I would call a "city". The man I live with is a true redneck, complete with eccentric things to say about "those people", grease under his fingernails, duct tape at the ready and the slogan "a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do..."

5. European 20-somethings who know more American pop-culture than I do.

But considering the source, I guess that's not saying a lot...

6. Stores that close at 3:30pm on Saturday

And by "stores" I mean the entire town... and they are closed all day on Sundays.

(I'm so spoiled.)

7. American music everywhere.

Bruce Springtein, and Taylor Swift on the radio. Danes picking American music for Kareoke like Nirvana Shania Twain and Kings of Leon.

8. Food carts driving on the beach.

Fresh fish anyone?

Zanvoort Beach, The Netherlands

9. People who think it's normal to eat potatoes.

And eat them everyday. Boiled, roasted, mashed, baked.. you name it, they eat it. And you can even buy canned potatoes at the grocery store!

10. Wrangler Jeans.

Yee-Haw?

Shop window in Amsterdam. Wranglers: 69 Euros.

Let's hear it for Handball.

2011-02-02T10:57:00.000-08:00

Handball? What's that then?

Well, it's kind of a cross between basketball and indoor football, and it looks a bit like the kind of game that would evolve over a lunch hour at school.

Handball first appeared at the Olympics in 1936, has roots that go back to ancient Greece and is played in 159 countries around the world.

Rather than fein further interest in the sport, I offer only a gracious nod, and credits:
Text & Images from BBC SPORT

Oh, and Denmark played very well this year: they made it to the championships on Tuesday, and the game went in to overtime. France won.

Hygge Christmas

2011-01-16T08:24:00.000-08:00

On a white Christmas, what can be more wonderful than a warm fire, friends around candle-lit table, delicious food and a glass of wine?

This is so "hygge".

In Denmark there's a word for this feeling. Other times when I've experienced this feeling I've been known to say something dorky like "I'm in my happy place" to express the sentiment, but Danes have a word for it and they know what they're talking about. Danish winters are cold, long and dark, but Danes have a way of gathering around the hearth and a lighting a warmth from inside themselves that chases away the cold (and it's not just because they light enough candles to put any fire marshal through the roof!).

Christmas here is exactly that: Hygge!

In many ways Christmases are the same here as back home: filled with friends, food, Christmas trees and family gatherings. But there are a few things which are really different... such as families singing and dancing around the Christmas tree, making home-made decorations from evergreen branches clipped from your own yard, and imbibing on æbleskiver.

Here are some stories from my hygge Christmas in Denmark...

Christmas starts early, and Danes pull out all the stops!

Danes aren't religious. At all. But at Christmas they suddenly believe in Jesus, Santa, gnomes and beer (no, correction: they believe in beer allll year!). But this is the time they pull out their decorations and heapsof candles and many, many gnomes. This is the biggest party I've ever seen! Christmas is celebrated for 4 weeks, known as "advent". The week before the first Sunday the entire house is decorated! Every Danish house is home to a Martha Stuart (who would be more likely called "Mette Stenstrup")...

...and everyone makes their own decorations!

Each Sunday before Christmas a candle is lit in the advent wreath....

And in my family we spend many Sundays during the holiday season with candles lit, Ella Fitz singing Christmas songs, and indulging in gløgg and æbleskiver. Gløgg is wine served warm with raisens and slivered almonds, and it's wonderful!!

Æbleskiver are little tasty bites of heaven which could be rightly nicknamed "pancake balls". They're served with jelly and powdered sugar....yummm!

PLEASE NOTE: I got an æbleskiver pan for Christmas, and I can't wait to bring this tradition home with me! :)

The day before Christmas it's time to put up the tree and decorate it. In our house candles were only on the top branches to keep the little ones safe!

Viggo wanted to hang stars on the TOP branches :)

Christmas is celebrated on December 24th and Danes hold VERY tightly to tradition. Each year the same traditions are followed, and it's not acceptable to deviate. In this home my morning was spent with the family grandparents and friends all around, eating all sorts of delicious goodies (not unlike what we enjoy in America - except here everything was homemade...and without sugar!). We drank beer and wine and coffee and talked and laughed the day away.

In the afternoon it was time to brave the snow and go to church. For many Danes this is the one time they darken the door of their local church, even though they still pay taxes to the church....

The Vicar

Christmas songs - in Danish!

After the singing and the service, it was time to head back home for the crowning moment: dinner!

Lars has perfected the sauce, and now it's time to cut the duck and put it on the table!


The kids can't sit still through dinner- and they tear into the presents!

Dinner is finished with more wine, lots of time for stories and for dessert: risengrød. It's rice cooked with milk, sugar, and vanilla, then topped with cinnamon and butter . One lucky person will find an almond in their risengrød... and win a gift!

We somehow finished all the risengrød without finding the almond... oops!

Treats from home

The night is finished with song and dance around the tree - and throughout the house! Then opening some gifts among the adults, another bottle of wine, more laughs, stories, and relaxing. What a lovely, hugge day!

Rome

2010-12-10T13:01:00.000-08:00

A heap of delicious pasta.

A stunning view of the Sistine Chapel.

Vespas. Nutella. And more history than I can even begin to appreciate.

This is Rome, and it is incredible.

Italian espresso. "Prego!"


The Roman Forum

The Colosseum

St. Peter's grave.

Roma, il mio amore!

J-Day in Denmark: Ho Ho Ho!

2010-12-06T08:15:00.000-08:00

Danish people like to party. No, they LOVE to party. I live in small town where there is only one disco - but that place is packed with teenagers partying until 6am on any given day of the week. And weekends the whole town is crawling with people of all ages who are out to have a good time!

So why did it surprise me when I learned that one of the biggest party days of the year is to celebrate the release of.... beer??! I'm laughing, but a little bewildered at the same time!

Tuborg is a Danish beer company that has pulled off a master marketing stunt: on Julebrug Dag (Christmas Beer Day) they release their Christmas beer. They drive around towns everywhere in blue Christmas costumes handing out free beer, and pubs everywhere start playing Christmas music.

It might be early - it's celebrated the first Friday in November - but people really get into it! I know I did!

"Glædelig jul og godt Tub'år!"

Language: currency of life

2010-11-13T14:47:00.000-08:00

There are some things you expect as an American in Europe.  A diversity in languages is one of them.

Sort of.

When I moved to Holland I was re-assured repeatedly that "everyone speaks English there".  What they really mean by that is that everyone speaks Dutch.  And if you make it apparent that you don't - and the person is under the age of 35 - then you'll probably get some response in broken English.  

This same principle can be said of Denmark and "everyone speaks English..." On one hand it's a bit frustrating when you realize that your sense of humor doesn't readily translate,you routinely eliminate colloquialisms and have to speak quite slowly to be better understood.  But on the other hand, it's kind of magical.  One moment you're in a totally foreign world where understanding nothing; and the next second you realize that you can carry a conversation with a new-found friend.

As  much as I find it at times frustrating, isolating and at moments  downright annoying... I'm really going to miss the language diversity when I go back to  the states!

After 3 months in Denmark I've found a pretty wonderful circle of friends.  Or, perhaps I should say "circles" of friends? I've also learned a lot of ways to read conversations by those things which are a universal means of expression - words aside. 

Being in Europe I've been surrounded by a choir of languages.

Enter choral voices...

My home-life is filled with giggling jabbbery kids. Who speak Danish! "Er du sulten?" Is one of the first things I learned to ask them - "are you hungry"? They eat about 17 times a day! And when the family sits down at dinner time I feel like I could be watching T.V. where all the characters are interacting in Danish and I have to pick out a word here and there and read their body language to deduct what's being said. Since the parents want to chat with the kids I'm left a bit on the side-lines and it's up to me to demystify what's going on right in front of me. But since life is looking after kids I've found it so easy with them: it's easy to play, laugh, tickle and make funny faces. Who needs words?

Danish classes. I started studying this crazy language a couple of weeks ago - and in my classes I came into a circle of friends who are... German. They often speak to me in English but when the conversation is amongst themselves, they instantly transition back to Deutsch! And again, I'm surrounded by voices completely foreign to me, and rely on facial expressions, hand gestures to get the gist of the conversation. I've also discovered how useful verbal sound effects are when you can't think of the right word!

Dancing friends... I met some awesome friends who are part of an international gymnastic school. I've been adopted into a circle of about 15 Latinos (from Argentina, Uruguay, Mexico, Costa Rica...) who love [love!]to dance. With this circle I fall back on my kindergarten-level Spanish. It doesn't do me much good that I studied it 9 years ago in high school - but fortunately dance is another universal language which does not require words!

When I was in Holland I got to meet a couple.  He was Dutch but also knew German, Italian & English.  She was Chilean, but used to live in Switzerland before moving to Holland.  She had been studying Dutch for about 3 years, but they still spoke English at home.  I remember being so baffled and wondering  - "how can you sustain a relationship when his first language is Dutch, second English - and hers first is Spanish, second is German?"  It just seems like such a huge gap.  And we all know how difficult communication in a relationship can be even when you both speak the same language!

But now, after 5 months in Europe, I've come to realize that that is a very American perspective.  I think we're just about the only culture which never expects to need a second (or third, or forth) language if we travel the world.  In fact, it's easy to live in America your whole life and never learn another language.  But this is completely different here in Europe.  Danish people grow up studying English in school for most of their school age years, and they German for at least 3 years.  Here, language is a currency of life.

And it's amazing.  

A day in the life of an aupair

2010-10-07T03:58:00.000-07:00

After two months in Denmark I feel quite settled, and very very happy.

What goes on in the life of an aupair?

Well, my aupair friends each have their own stories - it depends entirely on the family you live with... I can only speak from my experience. Here's "a day in the life" of this aupair!

"Godmorgen!"

I wake up about 8am (the baby usually wanders in saying "Hi? Hi? Hi?...and pats my face if she doesn't get the response she's looking for!),

I grab some muesli for breakfast, down my coffee and start looking after the Patricia at 9am.  Usually I check the laundry and then head outside to play.  Usually we go for a walk or play at the park, but on Mondays we go to 4-H.   

She loves feeding the animals and playing with the other kids.

After some lunch it's nap time.  I put the baby down for a nap at noon and tidy the house, and cut up some potatoes for dinner (yes, we have potatoes for dinner every night). 

She wakes up at 1pm, I get her a snack and play with her until her Mom and brothers come home at 2pm.   She loves to play with her music toys or play dress up (from my closet! lol!) and when her brother gets home they both love it when I crank up the [Danish accordion] music and run around the kitchen table giggling until we all fall down in a heap!!

I'm "off" work at 2pm, and often I'll sit and have tea with Mette - the mother of the family who is rapidly becoming a dear dear friend.  

Then I have the rest of my day free - and I read, listen to music, go for a bike ride, and spend way too much time on Facebook!

My evenings are spent watching movies, talking with the parents of my host family about Danish culture or going out. I made a couple of Danish friends who know where to find some music or play pool!!

I really love this family, and I'm happy here. Soon I will start taking Dansk (Danish) lessons and my Danglish will improve greatly! I'm looking forward to that... :)

Copenhagen, home of beautiful people, hotdogs, and hippies.

2010-09-20T14:45:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Copenhagen! It's a city where you'll find plenty of beautiful cobblestone streets and copper sculptures in every square and atop many buildings. It has tall, narrow buildings and canals much like Amsterdam - but this city has a bit more flair, and space (as in people give you bubble space here - Amsterdammers don't!)!

Copenhagen is known for a few things.

It's been rated as the best city to live in the world for quality of life (2008, Monocle magazine). It's known for being full of beautiful, fashionable people. Every corner has a hotdog stand. And hippies? There's an autonomous neighborhood of about 850 people in the midst of this metropolis - "Freetown Christiania", which is probably best known for it's hippies, art and mary jane.

Dog, curry ketchup, fried onions, sweet pickles. *so Danish!* You eat it standing up at the "Poelse" cart!

One of the reasons Copenhagen is lauded for quality of life it's walking streets and bike lanes which creates community and is environmentally savvy.

This is the main walking street. It's packed with shoppers and boasts street performers, musicians and open-air galleries.

And there are tons of bikes!

After an afternoon exploring the city, it was time for a stop at the bakery for a coffee!

Ahhh, coffee!

Christiania is a strangely wonderful, yet tacky place. It got its start about 40 years ago when some squatters took over a Naval base (below: Christiania follows the coast line where you see all the trees and the land juts out). They made it the home of free spirits who wanted a different kind of life.

Being here felt a bit like Peter Pan's land of imagination. If you can dream it, and scrounge up materials for it - you can make it! There are no rules.

Okay, there are a few rules: their Common law includes things like "no guns", "no hard drugs", and "no explosives". Not bad.

There was graphitti absolutely everywhere!!

Wandering through the different neighborhoods within this "neighborhood" you constantly feet lost. Dirt roads curve from a cluster of houses with erratically spaced out-buildings and random uses of space - a ship under a tarp "guarded" by an image of Daffy Duck, an industrial-sized dumpster plopped sideways next to a house, and stacks of all sorts of lumber here and there. Generally, it's chaotic, if not colorful. Yards seemed to always be quite unruly, but filled with flowers! ...and in the case of this house... marijuana.

Maybe this is why there are "NO PHOTOS" signs everywhere???

Haha! Oops - got a photo anyway..!

This is one sweet ride!

After a few hours I was ready to head back out into the "real world":

Next stop: the Palace.

The Queen's guard.

The Palace consists of 4 buildings. Here you see one of them, and the statue in the center of the square.

Time for a night out! Notice the sign which reads, "Probably the Best Beer in Town". Not too tempting.. sorry.

Prefunc: listening to the DJ spin jazz before dancing the night away!

After a 4-day weekend, if asked my rating I would say.... Copenhagen is great. Fantastic even. But the catch - this city is about twice as expensive as other European cities such as Amsterdam or Barcelona. Youch! So, I'm sorry Copenhagen, you're just shy of winning the "amazing" award from me. But still - it's a wonderful place to visit!

Denmark, you are adorable!

2010-09-01T07:30:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I spent my Saturday venturing to the "big city" from my tiny village. This town is about the size of Hood River... but what I found did not disappoint!

Welcome to the hustling, bustling enchanting little town called "Svendborg". Join me for a virtual tour...

First stop: town square! This is where you'll find the essentials: food, flowers and fashion!

Let's start with food!

First stop: the fish cart!

Here you can buy smoked fish roe (caviar), pickled fish... and fish balls! These look like a little muffin or pastry, but they're savory and SO delicious!

At the cheese cart you can find incredible cheeses from all over Europe. Including whiskey cheddar from Great Britain, and this coriander Gouda from Holland. Yummmm!

Flowers! There are rows of flower stands. The woman in this photo is "very Danish". Blonde, short hair and wearing earth tones or a monochromatic ensemble of some sort.

And while we're talking fashion...

These teens and their skinny jeans are on a mission - shopping!!

Speaking of shopping... I found a really adorable boutique there. The clothes are great, but I found something even more impressive...

...this antique cash register! (yes, this is still what they use!!!)

This woman is just sitting taking in the whole market square while she has her coffee and a smoke.

Bikes are big here in Denmark too! It looks and feels a lot like Holland that way.

Just down around the corner, past the Apothek (pharmacy), cerca 1879, I found lots more shopping, people-watching and food!

Hot dogs!!! Now, I'm not much on hot dogs normally, but Danes are known for their pork, and this is one amazing hot dog! It's roasted to perfection until the skin is just crunchy. Then it's crammed in to a slightly toasted pistol roll, covered in secret sauce, and it's unlike any American dog I've met!!

As I was wandering down the street - hot dog in hand - I came up to a grocery store. Which is where found this little cart with dogs locked inside. And I met "Mick" the dog dude.

Apparently I caught him on day one of his business pilot: "Dog Safe". He sells these little.... dare I say "dog locker"s? It's a brilliant business really. If little Fluffy can't join you when you stop in for bread, cheese and licorice, wouldn't it be nice if you could tuck her away for 10 minutes while you run in? Now you can. Thanks Mick!

Well, my day in Svendborg was a success. I got to see everything, meet people, try the food, and I found this:

Design Sale! Next Sunday... sweet! Guess what I'll be doing next weekend? :-)

The "H" word.

2010-08-27T13:00:00.000-07:00

Okay, I've been holding out - as if by not admitting it, I will somehow make it evaporate.  But it's time to say it, "I'm homesick".  

What I miss most from my beloved Oregon...

(1) The food! I'm SO bored of bread! So far in Holland or Denmark (apart from a couple of incredible home-cooked meals), I have yet to hit that place where you're ready to die happy after a wonderful meal. I miss Laughing Planet's burritos, Old Town's Pizza, Som Tum's Som Tum, and Living Room's Mezza plate! (I'm getting choked up just thinking about it!)

Lunch in Denmark: bread, butter, sausage, mayo, fried onions. Yummm!

(2) My car. Yes, I miss the independence of jumping in and going from point A  to point B.  Without working out the tram schedule.  Or allowing time for  the wind to blow your umbrella out of your hand 17 times while you ride  your bike in the wind and rain.

A typical commute in Amsterdam in the rain.

(3) Portland Beer.  Ahhh, the beer is so amazing! Here, "beer is beer".  Do you want one or not?  It's going to be an 8-ounce pour of something like BudLight... "Cheers!"  Forget getting a good Oatmeal Stout or even a good Amber Ale.  

(4) Night life. Yes - there's plenty to do in Amsterdam, but it doesn't really "start" until 1am, and goes on and on and on until even I am yawning and ready to die. Now that I'm in this tinseey, weensy village I'd settle for a pizza joint with a jukebox if it had people in it!


My "nightlife": a bike ride to the next village.

...the next village!

(5) English, and Dollars.  Somehow I've adjusted and it now feels "normal" to sit through dinner understanding nothing except the laughter and the baby's "LaLa!" (which translated roughly means "Lynae").  Shopping in Dutch or Danish isn't bad, but I really can't be bothered with the currency.  I just hand them 100 Kr and hope they don't notice the dumb stare on my face as they announce the total.

Danish Dinero: called "Kroner"

(6) A clothes dryer!!!!!!  Holy cow.  Call me a whiner, but in Denmark we're hanging laundry to dry in 94% humidity, and it's is a joke! At least in Holland the dryer will warm up your clean clothes (picture pulling soggy, warm clothes out of the dryer)!

(7) Music.  GASP! Wow, Portland - you rock my face!!!  Where once I could go out 3, 4, 5 times a week and hear a live show, someone on tour, or a jam session... there's just nothing close to that here in my village for certain, and not even Amsterdam.  Yeah - there's lots of great music, but Portland has many of the same names, PLUS the local scene.  

Okay, okay all the whining and fuss aside - I have to say that none of this has me buying a ticket and heading back to the "land of the free and home of the brave" any time soon. There are heaps of wonderful things I'm enjoying here! Mmany of them I've blogged about - but then there are the "little things" that maybe I take for granted now, and I won't really notice... until they're left behind!

Disclaimer: friends and loved ones are not mentioned here only because it's so much easier to talk about things I CAN live without! Yes... you're very missed!

when kids get hungry...

2010-08-24T09:52:00.000-07:00

The poor zucchini didn't make it...

Or, more accurately, Patricha didn't make it ...until dinner time that is! She got too hungry, so she took matters into her own hands (and mouth!). 

Well, her brother was fine.  Of course, Viggo spent the afternoon with the almond butter jar, so it's no wonder!!!

The accordian that bought a boat...

2010-08-21T07:07:00.000-07:00

At age 6 my host father started making money playing shows with his accordion. After saving up for a while, he bought this boat at age 11. He asked it made to his specs by a local craftsman, and by age 12 it was completed.

(He's shown on the left, helping his son up out of the boat).

It's still in beautiful condition, and the family enjoys summer days out in the bay. The boat is made in typical viking style, like this ship which used to be manned by a 20-man crew to England from Denmark:

Check out the Serpent's head on the bow:

Naturally, flying the Danish flag.

The craftsman who made it - now his son finds work by repairing his father's boats, but they're not made anymore because the process is so labor-intensive and newer technologies have taken over. The wooden planks of these old viking-style boats (including Lars') had to be bent to make the curve of the boat which is extremely difficult and time-intensive.

It's beautiful.

Newer boats in the harbor.

Another day at the office...

2010-08-21T06:38:00.000-07:00

This is such a simple exsistance here in my little village.

Yesterday I helped the family collect straw for the year. We loaded about 4 more layers on top of this!

Afterwards we enjoyed a beer and it was such a beautiful night for it!

Happy horses!

Barcelona Market!

2010-08-16T11:08:00.000-07:00

Mercat Boqueria

There are several markets in Barca. This one is just off the main strip Las Ramblas.

I was so impressed with how beautiful it is! The colors, aromas, and sounds are dazzling. I've seen a lot of markets.... this one really impressed me!

There were plenty of grab-and-eat goodies, including half a pineapple, fresh-squeezed juices...

...And this red, prickly fruit! ...which I bought, but I still don't know what it's called.

Then of course there was loads of fresh fish!

And cured pork is very common in Spain! I saw it here, but it's also sold in every supermarket. An entire pork leg? I need someone to tell me how they eat this....

And they're not at all shy about fresh meat~

Cow tongue.

Sheep heads.

Chicken! (feet still attached...)

And it goes on...


Heaps of candies! So perfectly arranged. Can you spot the candy "fried eggs"?

I really loved discovering all the new food!

Castle Time

2010-08-14T05:02:00.000-07:00

My new host family kicked off my stay in Denmark with a trip to a nearby Castle... and it is gorgeous!

It belongs now to the Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille who has expanded the grounds to include several museums, playgrounds, and beautiful gardens. I spent a day there and saw less than half of it!

Here are some snippets....

The Castle:

My tourguide, Viggo

The Castle was built in 1554, and is called Egeskov, "oak wood" in Danish - named for all the oak piles that support the castle.

The castle has 66 rooms.... here's a mini tour!


Danish choir in costume of the day shared some music in the	Banqueting Hall.


This *Hunting Room. The picture does not do it justice, as there were all sorts of old hunting tools, and all sorts of game, including an African Buffalo*, and a tiger (my tour guide didn't give me time to snap photos of those!).


*The Governess' Room*. She was responsible to teach and bring up the children to be "dutiful and polite".


*The Music Room: and the antique square piano. The painting above is the Countess* Nonni Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille.

In the attic found a collection of antique toys. This little guy is from 1930.


		Outside we the castle we found loads of fun things to try. Here's the whole family playing on the stilts!

Goodmorning Denmark

2010-08-12T09:52:00.000-07:00

This morning I woke up in my new room in Denmark, gathered my things and found my way to the bathroom...

...which is where I bumped into the man of the house - in his underwear.  Carrying a dirty diaper.

I did the same thing any civil person in my position would do: stifled a snicker, averted my eyes and said "good morning".

He proceeded to say "good morning", chat a little - obviously completely comfortable with the fact that he wasn't wearing pants - and said, "well, I've got some shit to take care of" and left.

Cultural disclaimer >>>

I've heard many other au pairs talk about the man of the house walking around in his knickers. Apparently this is not considered sexual harassment here... it's just the European way! They're very comfortable with skin (ie if you go to the beach it's common to see topless women and men in Speedos or even thongs). And as for the comment - if they say "shit" in English is not a swear word - if they want to swear, they swear in their own language.

Amsterdam: Gay Pride!

2010-08-09T10:01:00.000-07:00

Gay pride in Amsteram.

It's an exhibition in skin, dancing, fun, music and celebration.

This year it was doused in rain, which didn't deter the crowds or those who came out to celebrate their pride!

It's hard to describe the energy that this kind of crowd creates! Between the blasting music that each boat cranked out...each fading into the next, and the streamers, fog machines, confettie - it was a huge party, and it was only Friday afternoon!!!! I saw a sign in Leidseplein (known for being a party scene) that advertised "After party Sunday morning". Sunday morning?! That's an after party of all after parties! Wow.

Check out how many umbrellas are out!

And.....

They're not shy!

Countries... REPRESENT!

yeah... there were boats from all over the world, and all types of [gay] people!

Along the sidelines you'd find people with bags full of beer, smoking, and getting their party on! I have to say - Dutch people LOVE to have fun! They will party any time, and all the time! It's amazing.

Phase 2: Denmark.

2010-08-09T09:38:00.000-07:00

Aha!

I've enjoyed the past two weeks couch surfing in Amsterdam being a tourist, taking in the city, discovering new friends, chasing some leads that have led me to..... Denmark.

I don't think I had any idea where Denmark is before I came here.... so here's some geography help! :-)

I am going to be an au pair in Denmark for a lovely family of 4. I leave soon - so updates to come!

I'm glad to be still so near to the center of Europe (near everything!) and I'm eager to get more travel under my belt! I'll be only 2 hours from Copenhagen, named #2 top city in the world (Portland was 22) for quality of life by Monocle magazine, 2010.

Homeless in Holland

2010-07-31T08:25:00.000-07:00

Where do I start?

Well, to make a long story short, I'll say this: things fell through.

Shortly after arriving in Holland my host mother began processing the necessary resident's permit in order for me to stay and work for a year as her aupair. It takes a few weeks to process things, and

as it turns out, I am too old by Dutch law (I must be under 26, not "26 or under"). It was a huge oversight on the part of the agency I hired to place me because I checked and double checked that exact question. Needless to say, I'm mad, and very disappointed that my overseas experience got cut short so abruptly over something so small.

The last week I've been couch surfing with some very generous friends, and I plan to do that for one week more while I chase a job here... but chances are good that I will be back in Portland by September.

Cheers to adventures in Europe!

Barcelona Beach

2010-07-23T12:25:00.000-07:00

After spending an entire week in Barcelona, I felt incredibly happy just to be alive. I saw so many amazing buildings, met a lot of people, ate great food, and soaked in the sun at the beach.

Jackie and I - our first trip to the beach!

The Barca beach is not like any I've been to in America. The beach is packed with people and it's very lively! There are restaurants, bars and clubs all along the beach, and lots of people wandering around in the sand selling things.

There's something of a song with all the people selling things. And forgive the blatant stereo-types, but it's unavoidably noticable that certain ethnic groups are selling certain things.

First, there's the ever-present beverage seller. Indian and Middle-eastern men walked up and down the beach with small coolers and refreshing beverages, "cerveza, beer, agua, water, fanta" that just keeps repeating as if it's a programmed voice on a loop. The list of their offerings gets much longer if and when they stop to proposition you personally. "Beer? Water? Fanta? Hash? Weed? Cocaine? "...wow.

The next ever-present player in this landscape is the massage ladies. Asian women walked around with their oils and a medical diagram to show you that you can choose a back massage or full-body. "Masaje? Masaje?" If they paused to ask you directly, it's not unlikely for them to tell you "very nice masaje" as they rub your shoulders to talk you in to it. For 5 euros, my answer was "Si, por favor!!!"

Add to the choir of voices the coconut guy! An old man with fresh coconut in a basket shouting "Co-co nut! Co-co nut! Co-co nut!". Awesome.

And my favorite: the doughnut guy. He's a French dude who carries a triangle, and sings little ditties as he runs (yes runs) around the beach with a pyramid of doughnuts on top of his head!

Doughnut guy with his huge stack of doughnuts!

I loved it here! The Mediterranean Sea is salty enough that you're super buoyant. So when I got tired of the crowds, I just went and floated in the clear blue sea for a while!

Amsterdarn!

2010-06-28T16:10:00.000-07:00

My first trip into Amsterdam... and I love it!

First impressions? It's cool. It feels like New York because there's so much going on, and so many cultures present, but the people are friendly, open and lively. I might even go so far and say "jovial". One of my American friends later observed - everyone seems really happy here. I went with some friends to a pub to watch Holland play Japan (and you call it football here!)... and there was a child's birthday party going on (yes, kids in the bar!) and when they sang happy birthday everyone chimed in and sang along and cheered.

My first taste of culture shock came when I went to the bathroom and was greeted by a Toilet Token Taker. Picture this: a man behind a table taking 50 cents for use of the bathroom! OMG!!! I laughed. But the good news is he also has a plate of breath mints that you're welcome to, as well as a few bottles of aerosol deodorant that you can use!


This street just near the Red Light has plenty of bars and weed.

Later I went into the city and did some shopping and touring around. Of course I had to see the red light district (sorry - no photos - it's illegal to do that!). It was early enough in the day that it wasn't really busy. It felt awkward. Women in lingerie sitting on a stool winking and beckoning men as they pass by. These women aren't models by any means... and most of them look bored out of their minds. Many are on their cell phones. In my mind we have prostitution too - in Vegas it's everywhere. I'd rather see them strutting in their heels on the strip than in a little glass cage on their cellphone. Not that I'm advocating for either.

There was plenty of Orange Mania for the game!

I didn't spend long on my first trip - but enough to have some good laughs while people watching. We went to the "Dam" which is a big square and an easy meeting place. There was one man on a microphone who kept saying "Hello?" "Hello?" "Hello?" "I'm over here. I like attention". And another guy had 4 dogs on a leash - and two more in a baby stroller!

Au Pairs hangin out at the Dam

Well between the people, the canals, the shops, the architecture and sights unseen I knew I wanted to come back for more!

Day 1 in The Netherlands

2010-06-20T04:09:00.000-07:00

Day 1: I think I've seen it all.

European kiss.

After 11 hours of flight, 2 layovers and lousy airplane food I landed in Amsterdam, exchanged my dolla bills and rounded the corner to the sight of 4 little beaming faces eagerly smiling up at tme. Es, the mother of my new host family greeted me with a big smile and ready kiss - I felt completely welcome.

European cars.

The kids helped carry my luggage through the airport as we snaked through throngs of people, up the lift (which is like moving sidewalk that takes you up a ramp) and into the parking garage. I had to stop myself and take a second look at the car - the steering wheel is on the other side! The family brought it with them from the UK when they moved 3 years ago. I've never felt so awkward sitting on the passenger side in my life!

Tiny houses.
I think at this point it's safe to say everything (or at least most things) are smaller here. Smaller roads, smaller houses, smaller stairways, smaller bedrooms (think half the size of a college dorm room!).

Dutch fare.

When I arrived at my new home I shared my first meal in Holland (just because my body thinks it's 5am doesn't mean I can't dive in to lunch!)... which consists of bread with peanut butter and chocolate sprinkes (yes, I said sprinkles), bread with butter and gouda cheese, bread with nutella, bread with minced meat... bread with butter and a slice of spice bread (bread sandwhich anyone?). Lots of bread.

We started talking food and I learned that in addition to Dutch fare there's also a decent amount of variety in the city: Indonesian I had heard about but they also have Thai and even Mexican (which put a big smile on my face!).

The Dutch and their bikes.

Wow. Once I had a chance to settle into my new room (which is enormous by their standards) we went out to run a few errands and see Haarlem. Here's what the bikes are like -

All the bikes look like this, and everyone rides everywhere. And when I say everyone - I mean everyone! I was one of them now - scooting along amonst the pedestrians, mopeds and many other bicycles along the cobblestone streets. They have bikes lanes that look almost exactly like those in Portland except that they're everywhere (not just along Hawthorne and near PSU) and they're marked by reddish pavement instead of green paint.

Cannabis.
Coffee shops advertising for cannabis. I've seen it!

Fashion.
Europe has Portland hands-down (sorry hipsters!), and is more fashionable in the little town of Haarlem than in NY! We just can't compete. American girls can strut their stuff, but let's face it - there aren't a lot of American men who really bother with fashion. Funny thing is I'm so NOT used to well-dressed men that it makes me feel like I'm in a sea of metros (sorry Euro boys!). And here fashion is for all ages - little girls with neckscarves to the very elderly with caps and nice shoes. It's amazing.

Tastes of home.

The kids asked me if I like Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson, or Myley Cyrus (1 out of 3 is not too bad?). There's also a McDonalds in beautiful, historic downtown. Damn McDonalds.

Fish.

Herring is a "thing" here. Apparently you eat it raw with pickles and onions. I'm going to have to try that! Lekker!

Architecture

There's so much amazing architecture. From your home, to the office spaces to the grand old church that houses the Muller organ once played by Mozart himself. St. Bavo Kerk~

... And that's just my first day here!

Iceland

2010-06-19T15:40:00.000-07:00

When I flew in to Holland I had a layover in Iceland. The flight over was far enough North, that we had daylight the entire trip, so when I landed at 7am, it felt really strange.


The seats on the airplane had Iceland quotes like this one... "Ast" is the noun for love in Icelandic. But the verb is different. Be careful not to say: "Pu ast mig." That means: You ate me. Use the verb "elska" instead.

Iceland is a strange place.

It's about the size of Kentucky, and inhabits only 300,000 people. 60% of the people live in Reykjavik (which is where I landed).

In my mind, I think Icelandic sounds a bit like Russian spoken with a Spanish accent. Their language is so close to what the vikings spoke, that most Icelanders can read viking!

The country is kind of like Alaska - known for its raw beauty. Iceland boasts incredible waterfalls, whale watching, geothermal pools, and active volcanoes (I'll bet that last one came as a surprise!).

When I landed I saw black earth extending for miles and miles, dotted with vegetation here and there, which upon a closer look turned out to be tiny purple flowers. I caught myself wondering "what is this place?!" But maybe that was the jet lag?

The Launching Pad

2010-06-19T12:58:00.000-07:00

I’m fully whelmed with the happy life I have had in Portland. In the past couple of weeks I’ve had such a great time catching up and spending quality time with friends and family, I feel incredibly loved.

Last night I got “roasted” by a group of dear souls and as they shared a few stories about my life, and I realized how fully Portland has become home to me because of the wonderful people who shared their lives with me. From anecdotes about the impromptu escapades (shoving chips and pasta into our purses and sneaking it into the theater), to riding horses and deciding to munch on the horse treats, to the stories of nights shared “killin it on the dance floor”… there are so many stories that I can think about of why I love my friends and will miss being in Portland!

It was also pointed out that I have moved a lot so more travel doesn’t come as too much of a surprise. The countdown to the launch…..

THREE! (Moscow,ID)
TWO! (Spokane, WA)
ONE! (Portland, OR)

BLAST OFF!!!
To THE NETHERLANDS (and BEYOND?!!)

FAQ

2010-05-23T23:38:00.000-07:00

Hello!

I've been getting loads of questions from people, so here's the scoop on my au pair gig in Europe....

Why do you want to go?

It's been a personal dream of mine to spend a year in Europe - to expand myself personally and professionally - and to explore European culture first-hand.

I know that leaving my home, loved ones, and career is a big sacrifice - but it's too big of an opportunity to pass up!

When do you go? Where will you live once you get there?

I get there on June 18th, and I'll live with my Dutch host family. The kids are ages 5 (girl), 8 (girl), 9 (boy), and 12 (girl). And a golden retriever! I'll be in the city of Haarlem, near Amsterdam.

Will you be working in nutrition at all?

While I won't be practicing as a dietitian while there, I'm going to build my practical skills by cooking healthy meals for four kids (yes, I said 4!!) every day, and I'm going to network to get myself as involved as possible in the nutrition community there.

Why now?

Timing is huge! I've been working several jobs for a while now, fighting the economy. The up-side of that is that I'm not fully immersed in my career - and since I don't have any personal obligations holding me here, it's an excellent chance to take a year to travel!

What exactly will you do?

I'll be an au pair for the kids - taking them to school in the mornings, picking them up in the afternoons, and making dinner. I'll have evenings and weekends to myself to enjoy living in Europe!

I found out about the au pair idea through a friend of mine and once I looked into it I realized that it sounds like a great fit. So I contacted an agency that does au pair placements and from there everything came together rapidly!

________________

Keep in touch! I'll be fully "wired" in Europe - email, Skype, Facebook, and my blog.

All my best,

Lynae

How in the world I ended up in Haarlem

2010-05-03T19:40:00.000-07:00

Good question (I'm still wondering myself).

It was summer in Philadelphia, and somewhere between the humidity, coaching teenagers in the many cooking classes I was a part of, I was struck with the realization that Europeans are.....so "European". I saw two 14-year old's side-by-side, one of them eating candy necklaces, referencing favorite TV shows, whining and missing home... the other composed, articulate, and with an air of *something* that - after two and a half months living with about 700 Euopean and American youths - I still had no word for how European kids are so different... so European?.

I knew I had to move to Europe. I wasn't interested in spending a few weeks snapping photos of myself with the Eiffel Tower, Big Ben, a German castle.... I wanted to live there and see what makes Europeans so different. That was summer 2007. I still had to a year of college and wanted to spend a couple of years establishing some connections in the nutrition world before chasing this dream.

So, in January 2010 I knew it was time. I started doing my homework and accepted a 1-year position as an Au Pair in Haarlem, The Netherlands.

Let me introduce you to Holland with a few fun-filled facts....

The Netherlands:

Is also known as "Holland". The capital is Amsterdam.
Borders Belgium (which borders France) to the West; and Germany on the East. England is to the Northwest.
Is less than 1/3 of the size of Washington, my home state (in square miles).
Is known for wind mills, vast fields of tulips, and wooden clogs (winning the Dutch the nickname "Cloggies").

I'm going to Haarlem (the original "Harlem") mid-June, and I will be there about 1 year working as an Au Pair!!!