Thursday, October 22, 2015

Highlights & stories from my year in Denmark

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times...  Mostly it was the best of times!

My year abroad had its ups and downs and has finally come to a close.  I would say it's been everything I hoped it would be: new, interesting, eye-opening, a chance to meet great people and see life in a new way... and it's been far more than just that.  

There were some down-sides to my trip.  Winding up in Denmark via Holland was tumultuous and surprising to say the least.  Once in Denmark I learned that the weather isn't much to boast about, and things are incredibly expensive by my American standards.  I lived in a tiny village which was really tough at times.  But in the end, I loved it.  All of it.  I met some dear, wonderful people along the way and every challenge brought lessons that I now hold with tremendous pride.

Read on for some anecdotes and highlights from my time there!



My Danish kids!  Patricia and Viggo were my life in so many ways.  I love these guys, and felt honored when Viggo made the observation "I have three parents: Lars, Mette and Lynae".  It was very true that I was completely at home in their family.  And it was thanks to them (their whole family) that I ended up with a redneck Fynsk accent when I speak Danish. :)



The fountain in Svendborg.  The city where I spent most of my time is really beautiful.


Just an ordinary house in town. 


Someone is having a little "yard sale" in the passageway between houses.  (pictured below)








Town square (pun intended). 



Did I mention it's expensive there?  Cheap eats would be a pita or kabab, which runs around 70 kroner ($13).  The generic bottle of shampoo from a grocery store costs around 45 kroner (nearly $9).  And if I want a beer at the pub, it was 25 for the cheap one, 50 for a good one ($5 or $10).  Going to music on a Tuesday night meant shelling out 125 kroner at the door (nearly $25) just to get in.  Did I mention that was a Tuesday night?

Being stateside again feels dreamy.... the land of plenty indeed!  Everything is about half the price here, sometimes cheaper. 



For my birthday the family treated me to a Danish birthday doughnut.  They also put the Danish flags out all over the house and on the driveway (a Danish tradition) and sang to me in Danish!  It was a bit like this video. I'm the one with the floppy ears ;).  


Everyone bikes!  I found it really unbelievable when I was first there, but now I love this cultural difference about Holland and Denmark both.  Biking is just very ordinary there. This picture was taken outside the local high school - but doesn't do it justice.  There were hundreds of bikes parked out in the snow all winter long.



Kahytten is one of many old pubs in town due to Svendborg being a drinking well for so many sailors. This became a favorite hangout and got affectionately nicknamed "Hooters".  My favorite (in a love/hate kind of way) was Thursday karaoke nights when the locals would all sing along to the likes of John Mogensen and Bamse.  



Another favorite place, Maskinen ("The Machine"), had guests such as this Balkin/Turkish pop group which was absolutely a blast to listen and dance to! If you care to give it a listen, they are called Klepti Klepti, and though some would argue they are an acquired taste, they won me over instantly! 



I was lucky to have many great friends while there, and though the locals aren't known for being friendly I was lucky enough to make some fast friends.  

My partner in crime, dear friend and a brilliant woman who taught me about all things Danish: Maiken. 


And of course, my danish life would not be complete without a shout-out to Hans Christian Andersen.



I wouldn't say life there was a piece of cake.  It was just life.  Full of many ordinary things, yet with many extraordinary moments in the mix.  


Just another typical Danish breakfast: homemade rye bread with butter, goat cheese and strawberry jam, and a soft boiled egg. 





As I said my farewell's to those nearest and dearest, I was treated to an amazing 5-course meal at the local Kro by my hosts,  Mette and Lars.  They are lovely, dear people and enjoying this with them make this night one to be remembered!


Farvel Danmark, jeg vil savne dig! 
Goodbye Denmark, I will miss you!




Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Lynae, Helge and van Stenwinkel

Denmark is gorgeous in the summer!  Boating. Castles.  Meanderings.


When the weather turns warm and the sun dares to come out, it's absolutely lovely.  In my last weeks spent in Denmark I really soaked it up.  This was the end of June and while there were jackets aboard to fend off the cool sea wind, it was a great day to be out on the water. 





Just about to set sea on the Helge (is she called "the Helge" or simply "Helge"?  anybody...???). 


This is the view of Svendborg marina (above). And Helge herself (below).  


Smuk båd!






Off we go!  My mother's along for this Danish expedition, and we're headed to Valdemar Slot.  

Danish castle of glories past, here we come!




Off we go... for our three hour tour!


Cool sign, huh?



Time for a Danish lesson!   "Slot" means "castle".  Yep, pronounced just like "slot" as in "slot machines".  Not to be confused with "slut" which in Danish means "the end".

This castle was built by King Christian IV between 1639-1644 by his architect Hans van Stenwinkel.  I think the most interesting thing about the castle (apart from the sweet sign, or course) is the architect's name.  Did you just say "van Stenwinkel".  Amazing.  

Yeah, the castle itself... not so amazing.


Okay, well those are some great flags.  But really?  You call that a castle? I'm thinking it looks like a 17th century pole barn.  Yeps, boring. I didn't even bother to take pictures inside.  

Sorry Denmark, I'll enjoy your dreamy summer weather, and leave Valdemar Slut to someone else...

This crew had a few things to say about that castle.... 

...a picture is worth a thousand words, did you say?





Ciao,  Mr. van Stenwinkel and your big old boring pole barn... 

Maybe it's something about living in the same little island-riddled country for a year that I got a bit bored of their castles?  I don't know... but I do know that I never got bored of the Limfjords Porter or Ale #16.  

Yum, lækker øl!




Saturday, June 4, 2011

Ærø


Denmark is a land of islands.  There are three main ones, but it has has over 4,000 islands in total so there's plenty to be explored.  
Last weekend I went with my host family to a wonderful place called Ærø.  This island can only be reached by ferry and the kids were more than a little excited for the trip across to the other side!


It was a bit cold, but the kids had a blast taking in the view.


Once on land we explored the charming little town, Ærøskøbing.  It's hard to do it justice with photos - it's a place with classic old-Danish architecture, cobble streets and a lazy, small town air that is infectious.
 

A little girl and her giraffe could not be bothered to stay with the rest of us.


Our next stop: "Ærø Accordian Festival"


People were piling in to come hear the music in their cars, by motor cycle, bike or on foot.
This accordion orchestra included about 10 members... none of them under the age of 75 I think.  They played some old Danish tunes and a few familiar American ones too.

The accordion scene is strong in Denmark, and is a sub-culture of its own.  Young and old turn out to play, listen and hang out for this 3-day festival on the island.  As is typical at most any Danish social event, you will see people eating hotdogs and pancakes, and drinking beer.   


Choose your dog.... would you like remoulade or hot ketchup with that?






We took a break from the music for playtime!  This is the coolest... I have no clue what it's called.  You crawl up about 30 feet, and then slide down.  Perhaps it could be called a "Spiderman Junglegym"??

We drove around exploring the rest of the island which is beautiful in a very simple way. 

The most rugged coastline I've seen in Denmark. Lovely.

The local Hotel.
Skjoldnæs fyr

Last stop: Skjoldnæs lighthouse.  It was built in 1881 by Swedish stone-masons... some of whose descendants still live on the island.  Climbing the tower is a great way to get a view of the countryside and the sea.


The Danes and their ships!  It's just amazing some of these old viking-style ones are still in everyday use.





Time to go home.  This was a fabulous trip, and an essential go-to place if you're ever in Denmark!

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Athens, baby!

Athens at sunset.


Athens is a city full of wonder, beauty and history...


...and stray dogs, graffiti and pollution.


I loved it.







Good job fellas.  The changing of the guard.



The Roman Forum (yes, in Greece).



Zeus' Temple. 



 Local music at a restaurant downtown.

Some little guys playing music for change. Breaktime.



Yeps!

Nice knockers...

The local law enforcement.

The view of the Parthenon from my hotel window.


Did I mention the stray dogs?  They were everywhere..

...and the graffiti.

A local shop's cashier counter.  complete with ash tray and Saint.  

The guard marching to the top of the Parthenon at dusk.

The Parthenon.

The view from the Parthenon.